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Of course it feels European. It’s in Europe.

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Bitola is a gorgeous little town in southern Macedonia, though little is a relative term in describing the second largest city in the country. Roughly three hours from Skopje by bus, the ride there was largely uneventful save for the brief stop at a gas station/convenience store in which Ferda took the opportunity to hop off and stretch her legs, but failed to return before the bus began to pull out of the station. I did my best to yell in Turkish and English, and it was either that or my wild gesticulations that stopped the driver from leaving her stranded in the middle of Macedonia. He also very graciously arranged a taxi to our hotel, speaking with the driver on our behalf once we’d arrived in the outskirts of Bitola.

The highlight of the city for me was seeing the ruins of the ancient city of Heraclea Lyncestis, founded by Alexander the Great’s father Philip II of Macedon in the middle of the fourth century BC. Most of the relics, buildings and monuments still standing are from the Roman era several centuries later. The amphitheater is especially impressive, in excellent condition, so much so that performances still take place there during the summer. There were also a number of truly spectacular mosaics left from the Byzantine era, but photographs were unfortunately not allowed.
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Travels Through the Ancient World: Pamukkale

The Cliffs of Pamukkale

The Cliffs of Pamukkale


The ancient Roman and Byzantine city of Hierapolis is only a few steps away from one of the great natural attractions in all of the world, a collection of hot springs and travertines in southwestern Anatolia, as seen in the photo below.
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Lots of tourists, but no shoes allowed.
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Requiem for a Cheesecake

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times...

It was the best of times, it was the worst of times…

Cheesecake is my only vice if you don’t count all the other vices. It’s both tasty and delicious. I myself have won awards for cheesecakes in baking competitions. Well, award singular, to be fair, but still an impressive accomplishment in my mind. But what makes a great cheesecake? The answer is complicated, fraught with peril, and begins, unquestionably, with presentation.
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Wait, there’s pork in the bread?

Zagreb City Museum

Zagreb City Museum

Zagreb, like so many European cities, has most of the touristy/historical attractions located in the ‘old city’ section of town, and while it doesn’t quite compare to places like Vienna, it was still a great spot to spend a few days.
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The one with a young Mel Gibson, right?

Gallipoli

Gallipoli

In WWI, Winston Churchill decided to come through the Dardanelles, hoping to use the British Fleet to demolish Istanbul and force the Ottoman Empire to capitulate. When the first wave of ships was unsuccessful in this venture, suffering only modest losses, the Allies lost their nerve to try and force the straits through naval power alone and the decision was made to land troops in order to eliminate the Ottoman artillery. The next eight months saw massive casualties on both sides with each army firmly entrenched and little movement along the lines. Stymied, the allied command made the decision to evacuate after eight months of hell. This is the battle of Gallipoli.
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The Late Unpleasantness

Inside the City Walls of Dubrovnik.

Inside the City Walls of Dubrovnik.


In the summer, Dubrovnik is one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Europe. With sun-drenched beaches hosting upwards of a half-million people, this is one of the premiere European tourist destinations.

I went in the winter.
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Seven Hours in Amsterdam

IMG_0125Amsterdam is a picturesque city filled with endless canals and gorgeous architecture, and it pretty much shuts down around 2AM. This was only problematic since I’d cleverly planned my 14-hour layover at Schiepol Airport to allow me time to wander the city, assuming it would be open all night for me to take some pictures, drink lots of coffee and, of course, get that all-important stamp in my passport.

I’ve been to Amsterdam’s main airport a half-dozen times, but I’d never passed through customs, and the rule is you have not officially been to a country unless you physically set foot in said country and/or a customs officer reviews your passport. Airports do not count. I was determined to cross Holland off the list.
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The Edges of the World

Istanbulnight1 108Istanbul is a big city. Wikipedia confirms this observation in its description of the metropolis: “With a population of 13.9 million, the city forms one of the largest urban agglomerations in Europe and is among the largest cities in the world by population within city limits. Istanbul’s vast area of 5,343 square kilometers (2,063 sq mi) is coterminous with Istanbul Province, of which the city is the administrative capital. Istanbul is a transcontinental city, straddling the Bosphorus — one of the world’s busiest waterways in northwestern Turkey, between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea.”

On a day with the most perfect weather ever for a February in Turkey, I left my hotel in the late morning without the faintest idea where I was going and headed out into the sprawling mass that is Istanbul.
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Islands of Princes

Sultanahmet.

Sultanahmet.

It’s about an hour and a half ferry ride to get out to Princes’ Islands from the European side of Istanbul, which really puts into perspective the size of the city. Ferda and I got to the ferry early and had plenty of time to sit by the water, drink tea and relax.
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My t-shirt proved popular on the day, apparently images of squirrels with guns successfully crosses all cultural and geographic lines.
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